Sick 6 w/ Surfer, Matt Pagan

On February 3, 2014 by creativewavemovement

One of the true joys of CreativeWave Movement is meeting and connecting with some of the most incredible surfers, skaters and creative types that our generation has to offer. We recently tapped into the mind of professional surfer, Matt Pagan, uncovering his motivation behind surfing; the passion he has for continuously pushing himself; and why he’s on the cusp of creating an entirely different beat, to an entirely different drum the surfing world has ever seen. Here’s CDubb’s Sick Six, with Matt Pagan: Six Questions, Six Ways to Uncover the Surfers/Artists/Skaters You Need to Know:

Matt Pagan leveraging a nice pop of swell at the APSS season in Huntington. He finished third in the Men's division. PHOTO: Joe Foster.

Matt Pagan taking full control of the waves served up at this season’s APSS in Huntington Beach. Matt finished within the top 3 in his division. (PHOTO: Joe Foster, www.surfline.com)

CreativeWave Movement: CreativeWave Movement celebrates the passion and drive of all levels of artistry. Surfers play a unique role in this divine equation, and like any creative mind, passions inspire us in ways that we often can’t explain. What is it about surfing- dancing along the water, sick swells and all- that drive your passions so much?

Matt Pagan: As time goes by and the more surfing becomes a part of my life, the more I realize how relative surfing is to dance. It’s a true expression of self and the ocean is a place where I can completely be myself. The ocean is ever-changing, it’s something you can’t force or completely predict, so when you’re in complete unison with a wave, there’s no other feeling like it.
CWM: Absolutely! With this passion of yours, it’s always incredible how much that very thing will inspire further creations, giving light to more facets of yourself. You’ve definitely shown sign of that very fact with the creation of One4LA. Talk to me about that: What is the mission for One4LA, and how did it all begin?
 
One of BodyGloves most celebrated and dedicated team riders, Matt's in and out-of-water style continues to draw many.

One of Body Glove’s most celebrated and dedicated team riders, Matt’s in-and-out-of-water style continues to draw many to his budding surfing career.

MP: Surfing has always been my passion and the more I do it, the more time I spend in the water, the more I want to be the best I can be. Growing up, watching surf footage of myself has been and is still one of the biggest components of my progression. Along the way, my brother Mike Pagan (who is 5 years younger) picked up a camera and fell in love with it. He started filming me at a young age and he always had an eye for capturing moments that showed true emotion. He has developed a healthy obsession for film/editing and it shows in his work.

With that said, we wanted to have a hub for all Mike’s work, a place where we could show our true passions and what has influenced them. A little over a year ago, we were in Nicaragua throwing different ideas around and we came up with the name/logo, drew it up in a little spiral note book and the idea was born. “One4LA” stands for “I Love LA” and our mission is to show the world our perspective on surfing, skating, music, film, photography as well as be a platform for the great athletes/artists of the Los Angeles area to unite and show their stuff. Another main component is giving back to the great city that has given us so much. We will be coming up with different ways of doing that this year and looking forward to joining the “Creative Wave Movement” for future events.

CWM: We are so excited to explore cool collabos with you all, as well! For sure! And that’s incredible how organically it all began. Where do you see this mission uniquely intertwining with your growing career as a professional surfer?
 
MP:The further I grow into the athlete and individual I desire to be, the sky is the limit and that’s the most exciting part. Mike is definitely the mastermind behind it all. He works day and night and sometimes doesn’t even sleep (not kidding). So I attribute the majority of where it’s at to his hard work and passion. 
 
CWM: Well, you both exhibit such dedication to your passions, that is for sure! I have to admit, I have seen other surfers that stretch from Slater, Laird, Machado and Kalani, and something that you bring to the table of surf is really refreshing… As an artist, I recognize the importance of staying authentically yourself, and in your case, it seems pretty effortless in a sea of surfers that may go to the same beat…. How do you do it? What empowers you to always align yourself- privately and publicly- with who you truly are?
 
MP: Thank you! What’s amazing about surfing is that it is a true expression of who you are. I can express myself in the water and watching surfing is awesome because everyone has their own unique style and approach. I attribute who I am to my faith. I have the most supportive and loving family I could ask for and I am truly grateful for that. I was raised under a Christian household and those morals/values have shaped who I am today. I’ve definitely had to face challenges these past few years as an athlete as well in my personal life. Having to mature and face them with faith has taught me to turn failures/challenges into growth opportunities. At the end of the day, I’m doing what I love to do. God is Love and as long as that passion/desire burns inside, I’m giving it everything I got.
CWM: I love it. You really do seem to travel and go to the beat of your own drum: what has inspired that, and what keeps your inspired?
 
Matt Pagan leveraging a nice little pop of swell in Costa Rica. (PHOTO: Sean Rowland, www.surfline.com)

Matt Pagan leveraging a nice little pop of swell in Costa Rica. (PHOTO: Sean Rowland, www.surfline.com)

MP: The passion and desire to be the best I can inspires me. Using my talents/abilities and the opportunity I have been given- to its fullest- is what keeps me going. People that follow their dreams, despite any obstacles (big or small), inspire me.
CWM: YES- so awesome, and so true. At the end of the day, our aim can’t be personal exposure or chasing paper… Without purpose, there is no passion. You have a passion for surf; clearly, there’s a purpose behind the sweet cutbacks and killer swells you’re aiming to conquer… How would you describe what you hope to achieve beyond surf and One4LA using your incredible talents?
MP: I’m just strictly in it for the paper and the dough! …Just kidding :) .
CWM: Funny! Ha!
MP: Of course I’d love to make a living and have a long career surfing, doing what I love to do. But, my main goal in all this is to be an inspiration for kids and people to live their dreams. I was just a regular kid growing up, fortunate to go to great schools and play sports. My dad got me into surfing and it wasn’t until my freshman year of high school where I choked during baseball tryouts (after playing for 9 years), that I started to compete in surfing. Winning my first contest that year is what hooked me. Talk about a blessing in disguise! I just want to be a living testament that you can do anything you want to in life as long as you work hard at it and for the right reasons.

— CWM—

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